Kamakura: The City of the Dead

Yagura: Medieval tomb

The "yagura" is a relic that can particularly be seen in Kamakura. In a sense, it may be the thing that best symbolizes Kamakura more than the flower or the Great Buddha.





Yagura are said to be the tombs of medieval samurai and monks. Near the site believed to be the tomb of Minamoto no Yoritomo, for example, there is a yagura belonging to the Miura clan. Even today, you can see fresh flowers blooming in the dimly lit cave in memory of the deceased whenever you visit.

The photo above is of a group of yaguras known as the "Hyakuhachi Yagura," which are located on the mountain behind Kakuonji Temple. The "Hyakuhachi Yagura" has a relief of a stupa and a total of 177 holes, making it the largest group of yaguras in Kamakura. It is said that almost all yagura styles in Kamakura can be seen here.

Some famous and unknown graves in Kamakura

Once our hectic lives are over, we simply remain in photographs, or buried underground, but the person inside the closed yagura in the photo above is Soma Morotsune, one of the leading vassals of the Kamakura Shogunate in its early days. This is an extremely rare yagura where the person buried there is known.

The photo above shows Prince Moriyoshi's tomb, which is arguably the most impressive in Kamakura. Located at the top of a mountain, it is accessible by climbing a long flight of stairs.





Prince Moriyoshi was a very unfortunate person, as he was killed by Ashikaga Tadayoshi, who feared that he would join forces with Hojo Tokiyuki, the surviving son of Hojo Takatoki, and his head was simply thrown out in the grass. It is said that the head had a terrifying appearance in the moonlight, and legend has it that a monk from the nearby Richikoji Temple (now abandoned) picked it up and buried it on a mountain.

Speaking of unfortunate people, consider the two men in the photo below: Minamoto no Yoshitomo and Kamata Masaie. They were killed by the despicable betrayal of their allies. If one witnesses the deaths of one's father and loyal retainer in this manner as a boy, it's no wonder that Yoritomo came to understand that the human world is fragile and unguarded.

There are truly many graves in Kamakura. As seen in the photo below, quite impressive gravestones stand beside everyday paths, half-buried in grass.





It is no exaggeration to say that Kamakura is the "city of the dead," especially during the Obon period. Some people with strong spiritual powers have even seen a warrior procession in Kita-Kamakura.





Obon is a Japanese event in which people light lanterns to welcome the spirits of the dead into their homes.

The photo above shows the Obon dance during the annual Kamakuragu Shrine Festival.





The festival is held on the anniversary of the death of Prince Moriyoshi, the enshrined deity.





Although the prince died tragically, what did he think of this lively, exciting night festival?





In any case, it's fun and exciting to dance in a circle with strangers.

A Guide to Easy-to-Read Books on Kamakura

The books below, produced by Lab Deep in Kamakura, provides an accessible introduction to Kamakura from a variety of perspectives.

Lab Deep in Kamakura　Juei Masuda